I cannot remember exactly when I first met Doug, but it would be in the Salutation Bar in Ambleside in the late 60’s, where many life-long friendships were made. Early on in our friendship I didn’t do a lot of climbing with him. I kept a log for 25 years or so, of all the trad climbs I did. My first entries involving Doug were in 1970.

In the summer of 1985 I was looking for someone to go to Chamonix with for a couple of weeks and was delighted when Doug volunteered. Things didn’t start off too well. After a night in the Torino Hut we got to the foot of Pic Adolphe Rey, when Doug announced that he did not feel too well. He trudged back up to the Hut whilst I soloed the easy route up the Tour Ronde. Next up we tried the Ryan Lochmater route on the Aiguille du Plan. Doug led off and got some awkward pitches which were not well protected and had some dubious rock. I seemed to get the pitches with better rock and protection. We missed the last train down from Montenvers, so we had to walk down, ending up following the railway track when it got dark. The tunnels were scary. A great day. The weather forecast was bad so we followed Gunnars and Ian Blakeley down to Finale in Italy. Here it was, climbing in the morning then, when it got too hot, it was down to the beach for beers and ice creams! On the journeys in his car and listening to his tapes, I was able to appreciate his broad taste in music - from classical to Ry Cooder.

Over the years, Doug attended a few FRCC French Easter meets. One of these was at Aubignan. I was walking under the Clapis ( Dentelles de Montmirail ) looking for a route to do, when I came across Doug who had just finished one. He implored me to do it as he thought it was brilliant. At the crux Doug shouted up a sequence of moves that would enable me to do it. It worked perfectly. The rest of the route was still tough and more advice came floating up when I needed it until I reached the lower-off. Thanks Doug - Couldn’t have done it without you.  Several years later, I inadvertently found myself back on the route. I didn’t realise it was the same route until I got to the crux, when it all came flooding back to me! My heart sank. I knew I couldn’t do it. I was a beaten man before I had started. I pulled and rested on several bolts. There was no Doug this time!

In October 2007 we were in Kalymnos. As it happened, in the apartment next door to Kath and I , were Doug and Graham Rawcliffe. Good banter was had sitting in the sun, on our balconies, after a day’s climbing. Irox on Telendos had recently been opened and one day , about 14 of us ( including Doug and Graham), hired a boat that took us to beneath the crag. After a great day climbing, the boat duly arrived to take us back. The boat skipper was a Pink Floyd fanatic and played ‘ Shine on you Crazy Diamond’ over the tannoy. The sun was starting to set. The whole thing was so beautiful.  It brought tears to my eyes. We all had a beer in the bar next to the jetty. A perfect end to a perfect day.

In later years I climbed with him in the Peak and at the Edge. The hospitality offered by Doug and Sue at their house was unmatchable. Their garden parties were legend. Doug was such a talented man. The Avocets wading across our livings room wall will always be a reminder of him.