DOUG AND “THE GRUMPIES”

Created by Sue Douglas 4 years ago

Sue has asked that we say a few words about Doug and The Grumpies. The royal ‘we’ being the three Johns, Graveling, Jones and Robson.

Perhaps a little explanation is required for those people not in the know.  The Grumpies is an informal group of climbers all falling into the same age bracket – the old fart generation - which came into existence in 2005 and now numbers 30 or so, both men and women.  Though climbing is the common interest, these days, probably as much time is spent discussing aches and pains, knee and hip joint replacements as climbing!

Doug became a regular member of the Grumpies when he and Sue moved from Tansley to Dore in 2012 but his connections with some of its members go back many years.
His introduction into the esoteric world of the Grumpies was when a group of us was climbing in Horseshoe Quarry when around the corner could be heard a loud collection of expletives.  This was followed a moment or so later by the excitedly gesticulating figure of Doug himself.  A perfect candidate for our group. He was signed up immediately.  And what an asset he became for the Grumpies – his size and rugged demeanour meant he was the Grumpies first line of defence in repelling any undesirable gatecrashers and faux Grumps.

In these early days, Doug was still relatively fit and with his life - not then - being blighted by the onset of Parkinson’s, he participated actively in Grumpy events.  Parkinson’s impacted massively on his climbing which then became increasingly restricted to indoor walls and to him having ever greater difficulty in managing even the easier climbs.  This must have been very frustrating for Doug who, as you will have gathered already, was, in his prime, an outstanding rock climber and alpinist with many very early ascents of some of the hardest routes in the UK and Alps to his credit.

Much has already been said about Doug, the “Renaissance Man”, who, it appeared, could turn his hand to almost anything.  So, as he became less active on the climbing front, he became much more involved in photography, musical instrument making and socialising.  Indeed, he became the unofficial photographer for the Grumpies.  It is clear that he had a special creative gift, producing some really artistic landscape/wildlife work and also excelling with his “people pictures” in which, for example, he managed to show some of the most unphotogenic Grumpies in a new (and slightly) more attractive light.  He was extremely generous in sharing his work and, as a result, many of us have a “Doug” picture hanging on the wall at home - a constant reminder of the man and his abilities.

In terms of musical instruments, he was a very skilled craftsman, producing beautiful professional quality violins, violas, cellos and a guitar.  Some played by Sue, while Marg can attest to the quality of the cello he made for her!  Doug could also be called the “Three Shed Man” – while most self-respecting males have a shed to escape to in times of stress, Doug had three in which to carry out his arts and crafts and, to which, some favoured Grumpies have actually been treated to a guided tour.

He also became an ICONIC (apologies to Tony Mays} figure at the climbing Wall, often turning up impeccably dressed in jazzy sports jacket and trousers and wearing one of his vast collection of fedora hats.  In today’s parlance, I think that he would like to have seen himself as an “Influencer” but, unfortunately, most of us remained “uninfluenced” and are still as scruffily dressed as ever.

He was a regular in the Friday afternoon trips to the Sheaf View – the post Friday lunchtime climbing session ritual – when deeply philosophical discussions would be held.  Although latterly, Doug had some problems with his short term memory, he would amaze with his powers of recall when recounting virtually move by move ascents he had made some 40 odd years ago.  Also, in our discussions - which, contrary to many wives’ opinions, did not focus entirely on beer and sex – but were very wide ranging, he impressed with his depth of knowledge on many subjects.


Doug was very much his own man.  A very hard man in climbing terms.  A very gifted man in other areas of life, as his long-standing American friend, Bob French, reminded in his affectionate eulogy.  And it is important, therefore, that we remember Doug as the whole man and his achievements in so many different walks of life.